Friday, March 27, 2009

The Real World?

With one month left to vacation, I've been discussing the shock that I am about to endure when I step foot outside of the airport in Paris, then again in Taipei, and repeatedly with each city/village that I visit on the island of Taiwan. These discussions are quite amusing and I thought they are blog-worthy for the readers!

1.) Taking a shower every single day. Sometimes twice a day. I don't know what that is like anymore. Last week I was at Kate's house and she has running water and a cold shower with running water felt amazing. Then I visited my Chinese friend and I took a shower with hot water. I almost melted. Now, imagine having that every single day.

2.) Sit in a restaurant that is shiny and every single item on the menu will be available when you order it. I made this comparison when I taught the inventory session of my business class and I told my students how bizarre it was in the beginning when stores or restaurants would run out of things. But now, I think I will be amazed when they always have everything.

3.) The choices. Being able to choose from where do you want to have lunch, to where do you want to have coffee, to where do you wan to go shopping, to what kind of things should we buy. OMG the choices!

4.) White/Asian People Everywhere! Volunteers are just as shocked to see other white people as Cameroonians here. We are just so used to be the only one around. When I get to Paris, I will be shocked by all the white people. Then when I land in Taipei, I will freak out by ALL the Asians! Oh My Goodness.

5.) Constant electricity and high-speed Internet. I will be amazed that there is ALWAYS power. Always. Even villages in Taiwan where my grandmother lives has constant power. And then, high speed Internet. Where I can type in a web address and doesn't have to wait for it to load. Or I can open YouTube and have movies play. What?!

The list can go on, but I will let your imagination run wild. I am going to be the strangest person for at least the first week that I am in the civilized world. I feel sorry for friends who are hosting me in Paris and my family during that first week. But I am SO EXCITED!!

Content

I think for the first time in the 10 months that I have been in Cameroon (I know, 10 months!), I can honestly say that I am truly happy here. My happiness is not due to new surroundings and influx of new adjustments that lead to temporary excitement. Instead, the bubble of joy is a result of finally finding my purpose here in village and really recognizing and appreciating the supportive community that surrounds me. There has been more than once over this past week alone when I was walking down the street with a big goofy smile and thought, "I see why volunteers extend a third year now." Don't worry, I am not extending. I need extreme efficiency and crazy Excel spreadsheets in my life after 27 months here!

I am in a really good place. Last night marks the half way point for my first series of business classes here in village. For the past three classes, I've had to teach them alone since Nura had other engagements. In the beginning, I was quite frightened by this prospect, but they turned out marvelously. For some reason, I think I connect better with my students when I teach alone. Maybe they feel less intimidated when there aren't two white girls teaming up. Each session that I taught alone, I had many students stayed after class to ask me various questions, and also to propose new collaboration opportunities. In the last week alone, I was asked to teach the class again in a neighboring village and the community will pay for my transportation, also becoming a project advisor for a local GIC, assist a student to launch his idea of brining a cyber café into Batié and teach students Excel. I also received many requests to teach English, but I had to put my foot down and explain that is not my area of expertise and I would like to focus my energy in topics that I am trained to teach. I think I disappointed quite a few with that announcement, but I have learned the importance of saying NO!

In addition to the business class, the library project is really rolling! We have decided to split the project into two phases. First to raise money so we can receive the 22,000 English books from Books For Africa, then phase two will be seeking book donations in French. The project has manifested into something quite significant, but all the volunteers involved are really excited and committed to see this project through. Let's hope everything works out!

One month until vacation, and just a little over one year until the end of my service. Time is flying by! I am glad I've reached the state that I am in. I am happy and still have another year to really get work done before going back to nutty efficiency! Hurray!

Monday, March 16, 2009

Village Drama!

For weeks now, things have been going remarkably well, almost too well. I kept saying it's as though something bad will happen to balance out all the goodness. I had a nice trip to clear my head, gained perspective, my business class enrollment exceeded expectation and has been going really well, work has been keeping me busy, etc. etc.

This past Saturday, Loïc and Billy were working on my garden for me in the backyard. They pitied me and saw my disastrous looking garden and decided they'd help me. I went back there to tell them what seeds to plant and such, then they told me I need to go buy a bag of fertilizer (chicken poo). I had no idea how to buy it, so they said they'd go buy it if I give them money. Both are trustworthy kids who are my stable waterboys, so I said okay. I was in the backyard for no more than 5 minutes, came back to look for the wallet I had set on top of the bookcase - and nothing. Cell phone was still there, but wallet gone. I knew I didn't misplace it because just that morning I went to the bank and took all the fees for the business class. I even told myself to put that wallet away, but got distracted doing this and that around the house. So within that wallet was nearly $100 in cash (a lot in the US, much less here!), and my Cameroonian ID (can't go anywhere or do anything without).

I remained calm, and less than 10 minutes later, all the available neighbors were outside my house. I had called my friend Victor immediately, but he was far away and it was too complicated to explain over the phone.The "grand" (big man) in the neighborhood came with his car within minutes to access the situation. We knew it's a kid because the fancy cellphone was left untouched. So the big guy told the kids to investigate among themselves and find the thief. Meanwhile, I was told to be patient and it will be okay. People began leaving, the few people left were around my age, whom I never see! They were so nice and we chatted, etc.

Later in the afternoon, a group of kids dragged me to see the "village justice". I really had no idea what was happening despite of them explaining it to me 3 times. We got to this guy's hose, and he ordered to speak individually to the kids, then he ordered whomever took the money to put it back at my housegate before 7pm that night, or else. The "or else" part that I understood included unkind punishment and going to see the police. Later, Billy and Loïc revealed to me that they think it's one of the kids that was in the group. BelFrank was his name. He's the other kid that's still been coming by my house since the last episode.

7pm came around, of course, nothing. I remained surprisingly calm, holding onto slim hope that all will be fine. Next morning, I woke up after just few hours of restless sleep, where I had multiple dreams that the kid had buried my wallet in the ground in front of my house. Unfortunately, I woke up, and nothing was there. I went to Rose's house next door and some kids were congregating, and just then, BelFrank and his mother, along with his older brother, arrived on a moto. Apparnetly Rose had gone to his house first thing in the morning, and the kid wasn't there at 6am (what was he doing at 6am?!). We waited for Rose to come back from Church. Meanwhile, my friend Victor came on his moto. He was sorried to be gone yesterday, and when I explained what happened, the man was NOT happy. Victor is a man with authority in our neighborhood; he is the president of the development committee and is respected by all. He yelled at the kids and demanded whomever it is to drop the wallet off anonymouly that night. Rose came back later, another round of yelling went on, this time in the local language. Just happened that a few of the mamas were around, and they were all yelling at BelFrank and gesturing hand motions at me. I nudged Billy to translate, but he would only give me the gist of the information. So much less fun when you don't understand what is being said!

So come this morning, I went to the primary school that I used to teach at and spoke to the Directrice (principal). She loves me, and I love her. When she heard this, she was also angry. She ordered the kids living in my neighborhood in for questioning, and a pivitol story was discovered. Friday afternoon, BelFrank and this other kid stopped by after school and got water for me, then I gave them 200cfa to go find me some bread. No bread was found, but I gave them 50cfa as a token of apprciation. Apparently BelFrank had saw money in my wallet and when they left, told the other kid to go steal it. Nice kid said, "I'm not a thief, if you want it, you go get it yourself." Voilà! Truth revealed!

But of course the stubborn kid says he didn't do it. Everyone got sent back to class. I called Victor to say we were questioning the kids, and he came. Apparently when Victor came, Belfrank got scared and ran away from the classroom. There was quite the funny scene of Victor, a nearly 50-year-old man chasing after this little rascal in the fields, but to no avail. We've validated the thief and all I had to do was wait and watch the village soap unveil.

Later in the afternoon, Billy came to tell me they saw my ID on the side of the road by my house. Funny thing was that all the kids were afraid to touch it and I had to walk out there to pick it up myself. By nightfall, Victor came with Loïc to ask me a few final questions before they go to BelFrank's house to investigate. Throughout the afternoon/night, many neighbors stopped by to check on progress. I felt so loved. Then the real love moment occurred at 10:20pm, just as I began writing this blog post, Victor and two other chiefs of the village came by, along with Rose. They had beated it out of the kid and got my things back! It must've been quite the show since it went on for hours, but at last, victory!

So, this experience turned out quite positively. I lost out on nothing; instead learned just how much respect and care that my villagers have for me. Every single adult here is some sort of a parent to me; this is something I won't find anywhere else. I had my wallet/purse stolen twice in London within a year, and both times, I was upset and felt violated. The worst thing about it is no one cares, and furthermore makes you feel like an idiot for not "being careful". In London, there is a system online that you can report theft crimes, and the Met Police gives you a courtesy call as routine and tell you sorry it happened, better luck next time. Yes I shouldn't have left the door open while stepping outside for a few minutes or I shouldn't have left my wallet in plain sight. But it is MY house after all. I love that not one single villager ever made me feel like it was my fault, because it isn't. Depiste how careless I was, it is always the thief's fault!

I am loving the village more by the day. This is the kind of communal love that one cannot find anywhere in the "modern" world, behind the big cars, triple locked doors, alarm systems and goodness knows what else. Never again will I lose a wallet with $100 in it, and have the whole town investigating and hunting down the thief for me. We think our ways of living is so much more "advanced" and "sophisticated" in the "developed world", but we must also think about what we are missing out: the simplicity, the basic good nature of mankind, and a solid support system with those who live around us.

Monday, March 9, 2009

Yes, this conversation IS happening...

So the day after International Women's Day, I walked into down and saw virtually no one during the 30-minute walk, and then during the last three minutes, I passed a guy and he said, "what did you get for me?" I gave him a dirty look and walked away. Then I got to la mairie (the mayor's office/community center) and saw a guy that is usually really nice and cool. The first thing he asked me was also, "what do you have for me?" Now, still kind of annoyed from the guy in passing just before, I decided to talk this one out. Starting out, I was just giving him a hard time about asking me for things, but then before you know it, I found myself in this conversation where this guy along with one other are telling me how I need to find a husband here and that women are meant to prepare food. I was all the rage and thought, "this conversation cannot actually be happening." oh wait, it absolutely is. I rebutted back that women do so much but are not being respected here. I work here for free and people don't respect me, calling me names and asking me for things. The guys just kept going on about how men provide and that I need to find a good husband here. So I said, "it's 10am, what are you doing here not working?" Then I started asking what it is that men actually provide, and I am not joking, this is what he said, "we make babies". SERIOUSLY? It was absolutely the most absurd conversation I've ever had. They make babies? The last time I check, all that is required of men in the "baby-making process" is have sex, which as far as I know, isn't hard work for them.

I had to end the conversation rather abruptly to prevent myself from screaming his head off in bad French. Thankfully, I went upstairs to the Mayor's office and the secretary general was super helpful in getting a team of men to set up the classroom I needed for tomorrow. Thank goodness all men don't just "make babies".

Speaking of my class, the enrollment for this village business class is 28 as of this afternoon! I am so beyond surprised. In the beginning, I was afraid I wouldn't get even 10 and terrified that I'd have to cancel the class. Suppose all that walking around town talking/begging of people worked quite well! Really looking forward to starting this class, albeit slightly nervous about doing it in French. I don't know if I would be good at it even in English! Roll with flow, I guess.

One last bit of news: I recently joined Twitter and in the beginning I thought it was kind of silly. However, it has connected me to a network of people I would never otherwise met and gotten great ideas about projects. Also, to expose this blog to a wide range of new readers. A guy I was following on Twitter wanted to interview me after reading my blog, and here are the interviews in English and French! I am discovering the power of social media and learning more to use this new tool to my advantage in the future. For a while I was feeling somewhat guilty about having Internet at my house, seeming too "posh" for Peace Corps. However, I never do anything the conventional way, so of course I am not going to be a volunteer the traditional way, being stuck in a village, completely cut off from the world. Instead, I'll be the volunteer that is so connected to the world that more people can actually learn about life au village!

Sunday, March 8, 2009

International Women's Day

The long awaited IWD is here! A few weeks ago, I purchased the International Women's Day pagne (fabric) with another woman in village and found a new tailor who made the cutest dress for me! Villagers love that I have a dress made in this pagne, albeit in a western style. I talked to people about what all goes on during this day, and found that there is a ceremony that takes place with a small march. Rose, my neighbor who works at the bank, told me it is scheduled to begin at 10am, but maybe I should get there around 10:30 or so. So, this morning, I sported my cute dress and slowly made my way to this particular school football field where the event take place at well after 11am and the event didn't actually begin until after noon. I am so good at being late now; this will cause a problem when I go back to the "real world".

Anyhow, this ceremony gathered all the different women's groups from all 10 quartiers in Batié. There were many faces that were unfamiliar since I mostly just hangout within the two quartiers between my house and the carrefour. But I think it was good for me to show my face and talk a bit to people. The ceremony wasn't as long as some of the other Cameroonian gigs I've attended, but just long enough that I was getting slightly antsy. Women were all either dressed in the IWD pagne that comes in three colors, or the pagne that represents their particular community group. Like all Cameroonian ceremonies, a lot of singing was involved. I quite love the overall ambiance in these events; it's nothing that I would ever find anywhere else. The people love to sing and to generally have a good time; they take joy in the simplest life pleasures. Something that all of us from the "modern world" could learn a bit from.

Women Singing & Marching!

The Women Marching!

Women Performing Their Days in Farm

I don't remember celebrating IWD in the US. I think it was celebrated in Taiwan, but I have nearly no memory of this day being important in the US. Now, all the holidays that I've ever experienced dedicating to one particular group of people usually means that's the day to honor them and give them something as commemoration. People who have birthdays receive gifts, on Father's day dads get presents, on Mother's day mothers get presents, Kids Day (in Taiwan) kids get gifts, etc. So I was particularly taken aback when some dude asked me what I was going to give him for Women's Day a week ago. This conversation took place while I was eating grilled fish with the mom of Ju's host family. I took the opportunity for a little "culture exchange" and gave him a hard time saying it's a day for women, I should be getting something. The mama loves my theory where as the dude explained the rationale that here, the men supposedly does the "giving" everyday so on Women's Day, it's women's turn to give. What logic! Ever since that conversation, I've made it a point to give every single man a difficult time when they attempt to ask me for something for this day.

Another thing I found quite strange occurred during the ceremony. Firstly, I find all the flowery language and formality rather annoying in these Cameroonian events. It's one of those culture things that I will never be able to get used to. This is the result of growing up and being taught the idea of equality for all these years. I don't find any reason for me to bow down to people; they aren't better than me. Even if it's Barack Obama, I'd give a polite handshake and nothing more. But that's the difference between cultures. Every single time someone begins to make a speech, he/she must begin by saying good morning to a list of "notables". Not even just a general good morning everyone and good morning to the officials. But instead, good morning Mr. Mayor, good morning His Majesty (the chief), good morning Police in Chief, etc. etc. I should take a count next time, but I am pretty sure 1/3 of all the speeches are dedicated to these salutation in the beginning, and a list of long live whatever whatever in the end. Anyway, let me get back to the strange thing. During one of the first speeches, some important guy said a phrase that was supposed to be the theme of this day. It went something like this, "Men, love you wife and Women, submit to your husbands". I heard this and I thought I heard wrong, but no, it was emphasized time and again throughout the ceremony. I cringed, badly. By no means would I ever consider myself a feminist, but you can bet I am not submitting myself to anyone, much less my husband. This is International Women's Day, a day to respect and honor the work of women in this world and you are telling them to submit to their husbands?! Between this and all the men asking me to give them something for Women's day, I understand why polygamy is still legal and widely exercised in this country.

After the ceremony, I went back to my neighborhood and had a coke with my favorite bar ladies. I bought them a round of beer, just to aggravate the men who were in the bar asking me for stuff again. I love my village ladies. They are so funny! I took pictures with the bar ladies and that was a riot getting the photo right on my camera! Despite of everything, I love hanging out in village more and more everyday. People are really fantastic and I already know there are things about this place I will miss.
Me & My Bar Ladies!